Here’s a roundup of my favourite shows from NYFW:
There are very few designers who walk the fine line between ready-to-wear and couture but Josep Font is my absolute favourite. His collections for Delpozo always bring restrained drama and are part-fashion, part-art. His spring/summer 2017 collection is no different. Inspired by Spanish Impressionist Joaquin Sorolla and contemporary artist Soo Sunny Park, the collection featured beautiful periwinkle pieces, floral jacquard, cobweb knits and Delpozo’s signature bubble silhouette. A collection which was poetry in motion.
Jonathan Simkhai SS17
For spring/summer 2017, Jonathan Simkhai’s namesake collection is part ethereal sweetness and part sexy sensuality. Texture was key, with heavily embellished embroidery, shredded denim and cutouts all making an appearance throughout his collection. The movement and fluidity of the collection is so right for spring, it feels fresh and full of possibility. I can’t wait to see what Simkhai has in store next season.
To the untrained eye, Rodarte’s spring/summer 2017 show was a typically beautiful, ethereal collection from the Mulleavy sisters. However, on closer inspection, delicate honeycomb layers and beehive bodice detailing became apparent. Even the pretty, frothy tulle was reminiscent of an intricate bee’s nest. The collection also saw a smattering of pretty floral prints. While the layers of tulle and florals could easily verge on saccharine, the Mulleavys made sure there was still a tough edge. Part queen bee and part rock n roll, one of their best collections for a few seasons.
Proenza Schouler SS17
There’s a new energy at Proenza. Seasons of neutrals have given way to bold, bright primary shades and a punchy new momentum. Confident blocks of colour and complex stripes made for a statement aesthetic, however the exquisite craftsmanship provided a solid grounding in substance. Taking techniques from Parisian couture ateliers, the collection saw striped dresses woven from leather and ostrich feather checked tops as well as boxy tees. Fun and fabulous.
Prabal Gurung SS17
While designers like Kim Jones are often inspired by their travels, some are more inspired by their everyday environment. For spring/summer 2017, Prabal Gurung was inspired by the current political climate and the impending election. Having already designed a tshirt for Hillary Clinton’s campaign, Gurung included speeches and quotes by prominent women including Susan B Anthony and stated that Gloria Steinem was one of his main sources of inspiration. The resulting collection was delicate and subtle and light…albeit with a strong political slant.