Here are my favourite shows from Milan’s hub of grown up luxury:
Bottega Veneta SS17
This season, Bottega Veneta celebrated a double birthday; the brand’s 50th anniversary and Tomas Maier’s 15th anniversary at the helm. The brand had a subtle celebration of sorts, with Lauren Hutton and Gigi Hadid closing the show arm in arm. Hutton was a nod to the past – she carried a Bottega Veneta clutch in American Giglo – and Hadid was a nod to the future, as the undisputed model of the moment. Known for enschewing obvious logos and headline-grabbing pieces in favour of restrained beauty, letting the beautiful craftsmanship speak for itself. The collection itself? Beautiful, seasonless and classic. As we would expect from Maier.
Dolce & Gabbana SS17
I have to admit, I’m a sucker for Dolce & Gabbana. Each season, the collections are a tad bolder and slightly more Italian. While each seasons Alta Moda show seeks to immerse editors into a regional Italian extravaganza, the RTW collection takes a pinch of said location and simmers it down to a more commercial collection. Little hints of Napoli pepper Dolce & Gabbana’s bold SS17 collection, from the street dancers who opened the show the prints of the sundresses. The light up heels and the D&G logo tshirts were a headline-friendly highlight.
Alessandro Michele has a knack for setting the zeitgeist. His must-have Gucci loafers are as much a fashion fixture as Anna Wintour and his advocacy of the glam 70s has long filtered down the fashion ecosystem to the high street. His SS17 collection walks a familiar line between crazy and beautiful but his deft hand guides the mind to see the beautiful. Heavy 70s nightclub vibe, complete with a pink carpet, the collection features sequins, glitz and taffeta cocktail dresses. Sublimely covetable.
Miuccia Prada can usually be relied upon for intellectual collections inspired by the history of women. Opulent, elegant, more-is-more. This season sees that aesthetic stripped back; the show opened with a distinctly 90s, slightly techno look. The rest of the show unfolded as an ode to Prada’s favourite eras, the 20s, 30s and 40s. Beautiful chinoiserie pyjamas, tiny high waisted knickers and graphic print flared midis, though rather than a ‘greatest hits’ these looks were bought right up to present day thanks to the ostrich and marabou feather adornment on literally everything from necklines to shoes. One of the most beautiful collections this season.
No.21 is one of the major new labels to watch. Their simple shoes featuring intricate origami detailing have been seen on every street style star around the world. With Alessandro Dell’Acqua at the helm, it’s no wonder No.21 is creating such covetable pieces. For spring/summer 2017, the brand is all about femininity, in its many guises. Exploring juxtapositions between tough/feminine, sporty/delicate, light/dark, the collection creates a beautiful
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