Here are my highlights from NYFW’s autumn/winter 2016 season:
It’s hard to believe that Spanish-based brand Delpozo was only given a new lease of life 4 years ago, when Josep Font took the helm. Font was instrumental in the brand’s transition from success in Spain to one of the hottest tickets in the NYFW schedule. A seamless mixture of couture detailing and sculptural tailoring, I’m a big fan of Delpozo’s aesthetic. This season, inspired by Italian artist Daria Petrilli, Font delivers a typically high octane, jewel-toned collection. Touches of Petrelli’s delicate work softened Font’s signature architectural style, while the bold colours, bejewelled opera gloves and two-tone knits.
Oscar de la Renta
Peter Copping’s AW16 collection for Oscar de la Renta gives more than a nod to the house’s history, drawing inspiration from fashion’s Battle of Versailles in 1973 – five American designers went up against their Parisian counterparts. Copping’s collection mixed the American minimalism and athletic aesthetic with 18th-century French influences, resulting in a modern and fresh collection which erred on the right side of what could have been a jarring juxtaposition. Beautiful knitwear which was reminiscent of his time at Nina Ricci, corsetry and unexpected leather pieces made for a bold statement. The gowns, as usual, were perfection.
It’s hard to believe that Rodarte is only just celebrating its 10-year anniversary. Thinking back to early collections, it’s clear that Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s skills have developed and matured over the last decade, but the Rodarte magic is still at the collection’s core. Dreamlike and graceful, the AW16 collection had undercurrents of a darker, gothic edge mixed with pretty lace, bridal looks heavily embellished. I’ve come to expect wisps of dreamy dresses floating down the runway so for me the covetable outerwear was slightly unexpected. The structured leather jackets and shaggy furs were a great addition to the Mulleavy sister’s collection.
One of my NYFW favourites, designers Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen definitely have a tried-and-tested formula for The Row. Masters of minimalism, the tone-on-tone looks are almost a blank canvas which let the sumptuous fabrics do the talking – butter-soft leather, double-face cashmere, astrakhan. Once again, a beautiful collection which was expertly tailored and peppered with enough subtle details to keep it covetable.
Being the most commercial city in the fashion month roster, it’s rare to see a new brand pop up on the schedule which is why Sies Marjan piqued my interest. Though the brand may be new, you will be familiar with Creative Director Sander Lak’s work. A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Lak started his career at 3.1 Phillip Lim and Balmain before working at Dries Van Noten as Creative Director. His collection, inspired by the 90s, is sure to appeal to the cool, fashion girls and I’m expecting to see
it on the usual street style favourites next season.