Haute Couture Spring 2009 part deux

I left some of the big three houses last, so enjoy! Fashion Fix has been gone for a couple of weeks, keep meaning to bring it back! Expect a super-bumper post on Wednesday 🙂

Valentino

Finding a suitable replacement for house namesake Valentino has certainly been a challenge. Alessandra Facchinetti was replaced by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, and this was the debut of the new design team. And my verdict? I’m not entirely convinced. Sure, it was typical beautiful Valentino, but it seemed to lack sincerity. When designing for the likes of Valentino, you are of course tied to the heritage and archives, but you must interpret it in your own way and design something with the past in mind but create something relevant for today. Take Ghesquiere for Balenciaga, perfect example. The Valentino collection seemed like it came straight from the archives. That said, it was far from a terrible collection. With a background in accessory design, she shoes were gorgeous as expected.

Dior

Dior couture was everything couture should be: gracefully flamboyant and beautiful extravagance. There was no sign of frugality or austerity here, just an abundance of ribbons, crystals and rosettes. And it was done oh so magnificently. This quote from Galliano beautifully sums up his attitude towards the collection, “Of course I’m sensitive to the economy. Of course I’m aware of it. I read the newspapers; I watch TV. But dealing with it is not my job. When you’re standing in a hurricane, you have to keep your feet firmly on the ground. If you panic, whew…you fly away”. There’s something so wonderfully ‘let them eat cake’ about it.

As for the actual collection, what’s not to love? It was a riot of flamboyance. Daywear was how I dreamt I would dress when I was a child; grown up and elegantly refined. It was all about the silhouette, structured waists and flamboyantly flared out cornetto swirl skirts. It was old school glamour at its very best, reminiscent of the New Look collection of 1974 but sharper, tighter and more ostentatious…in short bought up to date for 2009. Take note Valentino designers; this is what you must do when looking into the archives! Eveningwear was subtly sexy with the focus on the fantastic silhouette. There are several awards show stealers, as well as some truly stunning dresses, though I’m not sure of the occasion. My favourite dresses had patterns on the layers, urging you to peel them away…

Armani

Georgio’s latest collection was a stark departure from his previous minimalistic aesthetic. And boy did the critics shout about it! The way I see it though, fashion is all about the about-face, something that once seemed grotesque (skinnies or harem pants..) suddenly becomes beautiful and visa versa. It was a collection very strongly influenced by the Far East, particularly China, a China that “does not exist anymore” according to Mr Armani. There were pagoda-flicks everywhere, from the trousers and skirts to shoulders. I wasn’t sure about them on trousers, but the shoulders were fantastic. I’m pretty sure shoulders are about to have a moment.

For daywear we were treated to demure knee length skirts, and very strange trousers! The dark palette had infusions of white and gold which really brightened it up. Like Dior, the look was subtly sexy. But eveningwear is where it came alive for me. Bright jewel tones mixed with striking yellow and the obligatory red and black. Not too sure on the separates, but the dresses were exquisite.

* Source WWD

Follow:
Reena Rai

Reena Rai is a 30-something London-based fashion, travel and lifestyle blogger. She has been blogging for 10 years (!), previously at fashiondaydreams.com before launching her self-titled blog.

Share:

24 Comments

  1. Fashion Addict
    February 2, 2009 / 8:49 pm

    Galliano always knows how to impress. It’s just amazing how he dresses a woman. And I also enjoyed Valentino’s Haute Couture!BTW, I’m hosting a Valentine’s Day contest at my blog and I would love it if you entered! Please check back at my blog for more details!

  2. Romeika
    February 2, 2009 / 9:30 pm

    HC shows are fascination, always..but this time Dior was my absolute favourite.

  3. WendyB
    February 2, 2009 / 9:47 pm

    Dior is stunning.

  4. Fashion Trix
    February 2, 2009 / 10:07 pm

    oo great blog and pictures, I’ll be stopping by sometime! I love the extravagance in Valentino’s collection, the bottom of the dress looks like cake mmThanks for stopping by!fxxxx

  5. Juliet
    February 2, 2009 / 10:09 pm

    I compleatly had my heart pump for Dior.juliet xxx

  6. Fashion Moment
    February 2, 2009 / 10:16 pm

    Armani is amazing, and Dior hats are incredible!FM

  7. Winnie
    February 2, 2009 / 11:24 pm

    Big love to Dior! Really love the constructed feel to the Armani collection. I need to do my eye make up like that.

  8. Song of Style
    February 3, 2009 / 2:37 am

    armani is a big surprise… love this collection!

  9. issa
    February 3, 2009 / 4:37 am

    mm.. lots of ‘waves’

  10. Noshabelle
    February 3, 2009 / 8:03 am

    Love Chanel and Valentino!! They were just my favourites! xxN

  11. Sharon Rose
    February 3, 2009 / 11:04 am

    Hi there-all are just simply stunning, a lovely post my dear!

  12. Eri
    February 3, 2009 / 12:49 pm

    Dior always so dramatic, is always a real show… But i have to admit Valentino’s looking pretty sexy!!!!Thanks for your visit as always.See you soon.x

  13. DaisyChain
    February 3, 2009 / 1:33 pm

    Dior and Armani were probably my favourites out of everything. If only I could ever afford to own a piece of couture!

  14. Juliet
    February 3, 2009 / 3:36 pm

    I don't yet know when Williamson for H&M will be out. But you can be sure that when i will I'll post it.juliet xxx

  15. Couture Carrie
    February 3, 2009 / 4:24 pm

    Fab post as usual, darling! Dior just blew me away! That volume!xoxox,CC

  16. Tina
    February 3, 2009 / 5:12 pm

    the dior collection was magnificent! love armani too, can totally see the ancient china influence, particularly pagodas, not sure if he had those in mind?

  17. dapper kid
    February 3, 2009 / 6:07 pm

    Dior was simply fabulous, the collection was stunning!! And it’s so true, I think it’s just typical British of us that a few inches of snow grounds the entire country to a halt!

  18. Mustafa Şenalp
    February 3, 2009 / 10:52 pm

    Çok güzel site.:)

  19. Margherita.
    February 4, 2009 / 3:40 am

    The dior pieces are drop dead gorgeous!

  20. atelier
    February 4, 2009 / 11:07 am

    I love HC and I never get tired of looking at it! it is so good! great review;)

  21. Japan Shopping
    February 4, 2009 / 11:44 am

    Nice blog and great picture

  22. Charlotte
    February 4, 2009 / 3:00 pm

    Dior was my favourite one in this Paris fashion week. And also Valentino seems to recover the allure they once had.

  23. May Kasahara
    February 4, 2009 / 4:45 pm

    dior FTW!!!!

  24. ...love Maegan
    February 9, 2009 / 8:58 pm

    I am in love with that Armani collection. love.

Leave a Reply

Your e-mail address will not be published. Required fields are marked *